Get a Free Quote

How to Move Appliances Safely and Efficiently

11 March 2026

Moving heavy household appliances — refrigerators, stoves, washers, dryers, and dishwashers — is one of the most physically demanding parts of any relocation. These machines are bulky, awkward, and surprisingly heavy: a standard fridge weighs 200–400 lbs, and even a compact washer tips the scale at 150 lbs or more. One wrong move can damage the appliance, wreck your floors, or land you in the emergency room with a back injury.

The good news? With the right preparation, tools, and technique, you can move your appliances without drama. This guide covers everything from disconnecting and prepping each appliance to navigating stairs and loading the truck — whether you're handling the move yourself or working with professional movers.

How Much Do Household Appliances Weigh?

Before you plan your move, it helps to know what you're dealing with. Here are typical weights for common household appliances:

Appliance

Typical Weight

Top-load washing machine

150–200 lbs

Front-load washing machine

200–250 lbs

Clothes dryer

100–150 lbs

Standard refrigerator

200–300 lbs

French door / side-by-side refrigerator

250–400 lbs

Electric stove / range

100–150 lbs

Gas stove / range

120–175 lbs

Built-in dishwasher

60–80 lbs

Stacked washer-dryer combo

250–350 lbs

Any appliance over 100 lbs should be moved with a dolly and at least one helper. For items over 200 lbs — especially on stairs — two helpers and an appliance dolly are the minimum safe setup.

Tools and Equipment You'll Need

Having the right equipment ready before moving day will make the entire process faster and significantly safer. Here's what to gather:

Moving Equipment

  • Appliance dolly (hand truck) — A two-wheeled dolly with a strap is the most important tool for moving heavy appliances. It lets you tilt the appliance back and roll it instead of carrying. Choose an appliance-rated model with rubber wheels and a built-in securing strap. Rental cost: approximately $10–$30/day at most hardware stores.
  • Furniture dolly (flat platform) — A four-wheeled flat platform works well for moving appliances across level floors. It's easier to balance loads on a flat dolly, but it can't handle stairs.
  • Moving straps (forearm forklift) — Straps that loop around your forearms and under the appliance, distributing weight across your arms and shoulders. Best used with a partner for lifting appliances short distances — for example, from their installed position onto a dolly.
  • Furniture sliders — Adhesive pads that attach to the bottom of appliance feet, letting you glide the unit across the floor without scratching it. Use hard plastic sliders on carpet and felt sliders on hardwood or tile.

Protective Supplies

  • Moving blankets — Wrap each appliance to prevent scratches and dents during transport. Also use them to pad door frames and stair railings along your moving path.
  • Stretch wrap — Secures moving blankets in place, keeps appliance doors from swinging open, and bundles loose parts (hoses, cords) to the unit.
  • Packing tape — For taping cords to the back of units, sealing bags of hardware, and reinforcing stretch wrap.
  • Floor protection — Lay down cardboard, old carpet pieces, or temporary floor runners along your entire moving path. This protects floors from the dolly wheels and any accidental scrapes.

Personal Safety Gear

  • Closed-toe shoes with non-slip soles — Never move appliances in sandals or flip-flops. A dropped washer can crush toes instantly.
  • Heavy-duty work gloves — Protect your hands from sharp edges and give you a better grip on smooth appliance surfaces.
  • Back brace (optional) — Provides extra lumbar support and reminds you to maintain proper lifting posture throughout the move.

Preparing Your Home and Appliances

1. Measure Everything First

Measure the width, height, and depth of each appliance, then measure every doorway, hallway, stairwell, and elevator along your moving route. If an appliance is wider than a doorway, you have a few options: remove the door from its hinges for extra clearance, use a different exit (such as a sliding glass door), or check if the appliance has detachable parts (handles, doors, legs) that can temporarily reduce its size.

2. Clean and Protect Your Floors

Vacuum or sweep the entire path from each appliance to the truck. Small rocks, dirt, and debris under appliance feet can gouge hardwood and scratch tile worse than the appliance itself. After cleaning, lay down your floor protection — cardboard, carpet runners, or temporary floor sheeting — along the full route.

3. Protect Door Frames and Walls

Wrap door frames, stair railings, and any tight corners with moving blankets or towels. Appliances have hard, sharp edges that easily dent wood trim and scrape drywall. A few minutes of padding now saves hours of repair later.

4. Get Help — Don't Move Appliances Alone

No appliance should be moved solo. Even with a dolly, you need at least one person to tilt the appliance while another positions the dolly underneath. For stairs, you need a minimum of two movers plus a spotter. If you don't have friends or family available, hire professional moving labor — it's far cheaper than an emergency room visit or a broken appliance.

5. Weather Considerations

If you're moving in rain, snow, or freezing temperatures, wrap your appliances in waterproof plastic sheeting or tarps in addition to moving blankets. Moisture can damage electrical components and cause metal surfaces to rust. In winter, be especially cautious about ice on stairs, walkways, and truck ramps — spread salt or sand on slippery surfaces before moving anything heavy.

How to Move a Refrigerator

Refrigerators are typically the heaviest household appliance (200–400 lbs) and contain sensitive cooling components that can be damaged if the unit is tilted or laid on its side incorrectly.

Step 1: Empty and Defrost

Remove all food and place perishables in a cooler. Take out all removable shelves, drawers, and bins — wrap them separately with moving blankets or bubble wrap. Unplug the refrigerator at least 24 hours before moving to allow it to fully defrost. Place towels around the base to absorb water as ice melts.

Step 2: Disconnect

Pull the refrigerator away from the wall carefully — either "walk" it forward by gently rocking it side to side, or use furniture sliders. Unplug the power cord and tape it to the back of the unit. If your fridge has a water line (for an ice maker or water dispenser), turn off the water supply valve and disconnect the line. Drain any remaining water and seal the line in a plastic bag taped to the fridge.

Step 3: Secure and Wrap

Use stretch wrap or tape to secure the refrigerator and freezer doors shut. If the handle sticks out and creates clearance problems, check your manual — many handles can be removed with a screwdriver. Wrap the entire unit in moving blankets and secure them with stretch wrap or straps.

Step 4: Load Onto the Dolly

Position the appliance dolly against the side of the refrigerator — never against the front door. With your helper tilting the fridge slightly, slide the dolly's lip under the unit. Strap the fridge tightly to the dolly frame. Tilt the dolly back to no more than a 45-degree angle.

Step 5: Transport and Reinstall

Roll the fridge to the truck along your protected path. Keep the refrigerator upright at all times during transport. Laying a fridge on its side can cause compressor oil to leak into the cooling lines, leading to permanent damage. Once at your new home, position the fridge in place and wait at least 24 hours before plugging it in — this allows the compressor oil and refrigerant to settle back into their proper positions.

Read more: How to Move a Washer and Dryer

How to Move a Stove or Oven

Stoves and ranges typically weigh 100–175 lbs. The most important distinction is whether yours runs on electricity or gas — gas stoves require professional disconnection.

Electric Stove

  1. Turn off the breaker that powers the stove's outlet, then unplug the unit.
  2. Remove oven racks, surface grates, burner covers, and drip pans. Pack them separately in a box or bag.
  3. Tape the oven door shut with stretch wrap. Secure any loose knobs — either tape them in place or remove them and pack them in a labeled bag.
  4. Clean the exterior. Grease on the surface makes the stove slippery and harder to grip safely.
  5. Slide the stove forward using furniture sliders, then load it onto a dolly. Keep it upright during transport.

Gas Stove — Important Safety Warning

⚠️ We strongly recommend hiring a licensed technician to disconnect and reconnect a gas stove. Improper handling of gas connections can cause gas leaks, fire, or explosion. If you choose to handle it yourself:

  1. Shut off the gas valve behind the stove. The valve is fully closed when the handle is perpendicular to the gas pipe.
  2. Use a wrench to carefully disconnect the flexible gas connector from the shut-off valve.
  3. Cap the open gas pipe with a threaded gas cap to prevent leaks while the stove is disconnected.
  4. If you smell gas at any point, leave the area immediately and call your gas company's emergency line. Do not turn on lights or electronics.

At your new home, have a licensed plumber or gas technician reconnect the stove and test for leaks before use. Many gas utility companies offer this service — some for free.

How to Move a Washing Machine

Step 1: Clean and Drain

Run an empty hot water cycle with washer cleaner or white vinegar to remove residue. After the cycle, leave the door open for 24 hours to allow the drum to dry completely. This prevents mold and mildew from developing during transport.

Step 2: Disconnect

  1. Unplug the power cord and tape it to the back of the machine.
  2. Turn off both hot and cold water valves behind the washer.
  3. Disconnect the water supply hoses using a wrench. Hold each hose over a bucket as you remove it — water will drain out. Seal the hoses in plastic bags and tape them to the washer.
  4. Disconnect the drain hose (usually secured with a metal clamp). Drain any remaining water into a bucket, then seal and tape to the unit.

Step 3: Secure the Drum

This is one of the most critical and most commonly skipped steps. The washer drum is suspended on springs and shock absorbers — without securing it, the drum can slam around during transport and cause expensive internal damage. Install the shipping bolts (transit bolts) that came with the washer. These bolt through the back panel and lock the drum in place. If you've lost the original bolts, order replacements from the manufacturer or pack foam blocks tightly around the drum.

Step 4: Wrap, Load, and Transport

Secure the door with stretch wrap, wrap the unit in moving blankets, and load it onto an appliance dolly. Always transport a washing machine upright — never lay it on its side. At your new home, reconnect the water supply and drain hoses, remove the transit bolts, level the machine, and run an empty test cycle before doing your first load of laundry.

How to Move a Dryer

Dryers are lighter than washers (100–150 lbs) and don't have water connections, making them somewhat easier to move. However, gas dryers require the same caution as gas stoves.

Electric Dryer

  1. Turn off the breaker, then unplug the dryer. Tape the power cord to the back of the unit.
  2. Disconnect the dryer vent hose from the wall and from the back of the dryer. Loosen the clamps with a small wrench or socket driver (usually 10mm). Clean out any lint inside the hose before packing it.
  3. Clean the lint trap and wipe down the exterior.
  4. Tape the dryer door shut, wrap in moving blankets, and load onto a dolly.

Gas Dryer

⚠️ Hire a licensed professional to disconnect and reconnect gas dryer lines. Follow the same safety precautions as with a gas stove: shut off the gas valve, disconnect carefully, cap the open pipe, and leave the area immediately if you smell gas. At your new home, have a professional reconnect and test the gas line before using the dryer.

How to Move a Dishwasher

Dishwashers are typically the lightest major appliance (60–80 lbs), but they're also the trickiest to disconnect because they're usually hardwired or connected under the kitchen counter with multiple hoses.

Step 1: Disconnect

  1. Turn off the breaker that powers the dishwasher. If it's plugged in, unplug it. If it's hardwired, you may need an electrician to safely disconnect it.
  2. Turn off the water supply valve (usually under the kitchen sink). Disconnect the water supply line from the valve — have a towel ready for drips.
  3. Disconnect the drain hose from the sink drain or garbage disposal.
  4. Remove the mounting brackets that secure the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop (usually two screws at the top).

Step 2: Remove and Prep

  1. Carefully slide the dishwasher out from under the counter. Go slowly — the water line and drain hose may still be partially threaded through the cabinet.
  2. Remove and wrap the racks separately. Secure all loose hoses and parts to the unit with tape.
  3. Leave the door slightly open for several hours to allow the interior to dry, then tape the door shut for transport.
  4. Wrap in a moving blanket and load onto a dolly. Dishwashers can be transported upright or on their back — check your manual for specific guidance.

How to Move Appliances Up and Down Stairs

Stairs are the most dangerous part of moving any heavy appliance. Sliders and flat dollies are useless on stairs — you need a hand truck (two-wheeled appliance dolly) and at least two strong people. For appliances over 250 lbs, hire professionals with stair-climbing equipment.

Preparation

  • Measure the stairwell — Check the width between walls or railings, ceiling height at the top and bottom, and the dimensions of any landings or turns.
  • Clear and protect the stairs — Remove all rugs, shoes, and objects. Lay cardboard or blankets on the steps and secure with painter's tape to prevent shifting.
  • Check for hazards — Test railings for stability, look for loose steps or uneven surfaces. In winter, clear ice and snow from any outdoor stairs and apply salt.
  • Assign roles — One person at the bottom (the stronger person, bearing more weight), one at the top guiding, and ideally a third as a spotter who stays clear of the load and watches for problems.

Going Upstairs

  1. Strap the appliance tightly to the hand truck. Double-check that nothing is loose.
  2. Tilt the dolly back to balance the load. The person at the bottom pushes and lifts the dolly up each step. The person at the top pulls the handle and guides the direction.
  3. Move one step at a time. Pause between steps to rebalance if needed. Never rush.
  4. The spotter walks alongside, watching for the appliance shifting or the dolly wheels catching on step edges.

Going Downstairs

  1. The person at the top controls the descent speed — this is the hardest and most important role. Lower the dolly one step at a time.
  2. The person at the bottom walks backward, guiding the dolly and calling out each step.
  3. Pull the dolly — never push it downstairs. Pushing makes it nearly impossible to control the weight on a decline.
  4. If the load starts sliding or feels uncontrollable, press the appliance against the wall to stop. Never try to catch a falling appliance.

If your move involves more than two flights of stairs or has tight turns, seriously consider hiring professionals. Move4U's crew handles appliance moves on Chicago stairs every day and has specialized stair-climbing equipment. Get a free quote here.

Loading Appliances Into the Truck

  • Use the ramp. If your moving truck has a loading ramp, use it for every appliance. Lifting a 200+ lb fridge directly onto a truck bed is dangerous and unnecessary.
  • Load appliances first. Place them at the front of the truck (near the cab) where weight distribution keeps the truck stable during transport.
  • Keep everything upright. Refrigerators, washers, and dryers should always stand upright during transport. Laying them down risks internal damage.
  • Strap them down. Use ratchet straps secured to the truck's anchor points. Strap each appliance individually — don't rely on wedging them between boxes. Appliances can shift during turns and sudden stops, even in a packed truck.
  • Add padding between units. Place moving blankets or cardboard between appliances that are loaded side by side to prevent them from scratching each other.

Setting Up Appliances at Your New Home

  1. Position before connecting. Roll each appliance into its final spot first. Once connected to water, gas, or heavy-duty electrical, repositioning becomes much harder.
  2. Level every appliance. Use a bubble level on top of each unit. Adjust the feet until the appliance is perfectly level — an unleveled washer will vibrate, walk across the floor, and wear out faster.
  3. Wait before running. Give refrigerators at least 24 hours upright before plugging in. Front-load washers should also sit for 24 hours before the first cycle, allowing internal fluids to settle.
  4. Remove all transit bolts from the washer. This is easy to forget after a long moving day, but running a washer with transit bolts installed will damage the drum suspension.
  5. Run test cycles. Run each appliance empty first — an empty fridge for 24 hours to reach temperature, an empty wash cycle, an empty dryer cycle, and an empty dishwasher cycle. Listen for unusual sounds or vibrations that could indicate damage during transport.
  6. Gas appliances — hire a professional. Have a licensed technician reconnect and test any gas stove or gas dryer. Do not use the appliance until the technician confirms there are no leaks.

When to Hire Professional Movers

Some situations are genuinely better left to professionals. Consider hiring Move4U's appliance movers if:

  • Your move involves stairs — especially more than one flight or with tight turns.
  • You have gas appliances that need disconnection and reconnection.
  • You're moving a stacked washer-dryer unit or a very large refrigerator (300+ lbs).
  • You don't have at least two helpers available on moving day.
  • You have a history of back problems or physical limitations.

Move4U's licensed, insured team handles appliance moves across Chicago daily. We bring our own equipment — appliance dollies, straps, blankets, and floor protection — so you don't need to rent anything. Contact us for a free quote.

Frequently Asked Questions About Moving Appliances

Can I lay a refrigerator on its side during transport?

It's best to keep a refrigerator upright at all times. Laying it on its side can cause compressor oil to flow into the cooling lines, which may prevent the fridge from cooling properly afterward. If you absolutely must lay it down due to vehicle size constraints, keep it on its back (not the front or side) for the shortest time possible, and wait at least 24 hours after standing it upright before plugging it in.

Do I need transit bolts to move a washing machine?

Yes. Transit bolts secure the washer drum so it doesn't slam against the interior walls during transport. Without them, you risk damaging the drum suspension — a repair that can cost more than a new washer. Check your owner's manual for the bolt locations. If you've lost the original bolts, order replacements from the manufacturer before moving day.

How do I move a gas stove or gas dryer safely?

We strongly recommend hiring a licensed technician to disconnect and reconnect any gas appliance. If you do it yourself, shut off the gas valve first, then carefully disconnect the flexible gas connector. Cap the open gas pipe immediately. If you smell gas at any point, leave the building and call your gas company's emergency line. At your new home, always have a professional reconnect the gas line and test for leaks before using the appliance.

How long should I wait before plugging in a refrigerator after moving?

Wait at least 24 hours before plugging in your refrigerator. This allows the compressor oil and refrigerant to settle back into their proper positions after being jostled during the move. Plugging it in too early can damage the compressor. After turning it on, give it another 24 hours to reach the proper temperature before loading it with food.

Can I move appliances by myself?

It's not recommended. Even with a dolly, you need at least one helper to safely tilt, load, and maneuver heavy appliances. Most household appliances weigh between 100 and 400 lbs — well beyond what one person should attempt to handle alone. If you don't have helpers available, hiring professional moving labor is the safest and most cost-effective option.

What's the best way to move appliances on stairs?

Use a two-wheeled appliance hand truck (not a flat dolly) with the appliance strapped tightly to the frame. Have one person at the bottom bearing the weight and one at the top guiding. Move one step at a time, communicate every movement, and always pull the dolly when going downstairs — never push. For appliances over 250 lbs, hire professional movers with stair-climbing equipment.

Should I move my old appliances or buy new ones?

Consider the age, condition, and replacement cost of each appliance. If an appliance is over 8–10 years old, selling it (or leaving it for the new occupant) and buying new at your destination may be more cost-effective — especially if your move involves stairs, long distances, or professional disconnection of gas lines. However, newer or high-end appliances are usually worth bringing along.


Your next move starts with free quote